No problem. Knives made by steel, sometimes made by stainless steel as well, would rust actually. There are many causes such as, moisture left on blade after use, adhesion of dust containing acidum or sodium, storage with high humidity etc. It can be prevented by wiping off with dry cloth after wash. Especially iron or steel based blades are very easy to rust, and we recommend to coat such blades by cooking oil.
Once it rusted, how can we get rid of them? In case of rust on the edge, it can be removed by re-sharpening. If rust on other areas, scrub it off by cleanser for stainless based blade, and so as by steel wool for iron/steel based blades. Please note however that cleanser may scratch the blade.
Rust does not affect on the function of knives, and it is iron which can be taken in human body.
All our products have enough hardness and are seldom chipped or broken if you use a right knife for proper usage.
In case if you cut frozen food, hard vegetables such as pumpkin, or fish bones etc. the edge could be chipped. We recommend to use especially designed frozen food knife for frozen food, Deba knife for hard vegetables and fish bones.
If knife stops in the middle when cutting something hard, do not try further. Simply pull it right up and try again slowly and carefully.
If you re-sharpen the edge very thin, it could be very sharp but its strengh reduces drastically, and that could be the cause of broken edge.
The edge can be cracked when it gets strong impact.
It is however able to repair by re-sharpening, in case if the blade is made by clad materials. Please note that re-sharpening of cracked edge is quite difficult and requires skill. Re-sharpening by professional is recommendable.
If the handle is attached without rivets or adhesive agent, like most Japanese style knives, hit the end of the handle a few times by hammer. It should be OK. In case of corrosion inside the handle, the whole handle can be replaced.
Look at your knife from the end of the handle, hold blade’s spine upright, and check if the handle and the blade are on the straight line. If not, it is distorted.
To fix the distortion, wrap the blade with towel and hold it tight, then gradually apply force to bend against the distortion. Be careful, the blade can be broken if too much force is applied at a time.
There could be slight difference, because each product is forged and edged one by one by our craftsmen/women. It is seen especially in Japanese style knives, Soba knives, and Chinese knives. The difference however does not affect on its function.
As you re-sharpen, the blade of course gets slimmed and lose its weight.
The cause of the smell is probably the bakelite used as adhesive agent to form compressed laminated wood handle (mentioned as “strengthened black wood” in our brochure). Bakelite sometimes gives strange smell off when heat is applied.
Dishwasher is thus not recommendable for this type of handle.
As far as it can be re-sharpened, the knife is usable. But when its life finally ended and you would like to dispose it, please follow your local regulations of disposing dangerous goods.
Until the end of the 19th century, Japanese people did not have eating habit of beef and Japanese knives at that time were designed for cooking fish and vegetables.
As soon as eating habit of beef came from Europe and spread quickly all over Japan, chef knife was imported as well and gained popularity.
Japanese people then fused the advantages of chef knife and Japanese style knife, and created an all-purpose knife for home use by the mid 20th century. This was the Santoku knife.
What kind of dish would you like to cook? How often will you use the knife?
Maybe you can start up your knife selection from these two questions.
We recommend the Santoku knife. Since it is designed as all-purpose, and very suitable for beginners. After some cooking experience, you can then select suitable ones for your needs.
A chef knife with blade length less than 20cm and a petty knife should be useful for home use.
There are several stories about segmentation of Western knife and Japanese knife. There is one segmentation as double-edged knife is Western knife and single-edged knife is Japanese knife. However, we, Fujitora Industry Co., LTD. are dividing this matter by shape and specification of handle. Basically, Western knife has anchored handle and Japanese knife has inserted handle in professional knife series. The difference of food culture between Japan and Western countries made the knife usage difference. For base usage, Western knife cut material by bang down but Japanese knife cut it by pulling apart. Then, Sharpening method between them is also different. It is very fantastic because this is synchronized to sword usage between Viking and Japanese Samurai.
Yes, sharpener is not a substitute for a whetstone.
A sharpener only roughens the edge, and the roughened edge only temporarily catches an object easily. If you continuously use a sharpener, the edge becomes brittle and will be chipped eventually. Therefore a sharpener is used only for temporary repair, and re-sharpening by a whetstone is absolutely necessary.
The whetstones can be classified in three categories, which are rough, medium, and finishing.
Rough grinding (#300-400) is used for repairing chipped edge or for adjusting grinded angle of the blade.
For only edging, medium grinding (#800-1200) is enough.
Followed by edging, finishing stone (#3000-4000) completes the surface of the edge. The edge
gains its durability by doing so.
Stainless steel can also be re-sharpened, but it requires more sharpening than you do for standard steel due to the viscosity of stainless steel.
For very hard blade such as powdered high-speed steel, ceramic whetstone is recommendable.